Custom Sbc Valve Covers

Dress up your engine with a set of our black anodized valve covers – custom engraved with your logo or slogan. Talk about impressive – these covers will get you some attention! Not only do they look great – but your logo will really “pop” against the black background.The quality of our Professional and Sportsman Series valve covers is second to none. We also offer erectiewinkel options such as valve spring oilers, breathers, fittings, and affordable custom engraving. Because engraving is accomplished entirely in-house, the cost is now within reach of every company or racing team. Call us today!

The constant removal and installation of valve covers required in professional racing teams led to the development of our billet-rail Professional Series. If your engine experiences high vacuum levels and/or requires regular valve adjustments, you need the incomparable sealing and fit assured by CNC-machined billet rails. These 1/2″ thick rails are heliarc welded to hand-formed, 3003 sheet metal, and precisely machined to match your gaskets. Even after years of use and hundreds of removals, the strength and flatness of billet rails assures the integrity of the sealing surface.

Additionally, we offer either pass-through-tube or “tubeless” mounting for many engine applications. All Pro-Series valve covers are sized to accommodate the largest cylinder heads, rocker assemblies and stud girdles in use today. These should be the last valve covers you ever have to buy for your engine!Our Professional Series billet-rail valve covers put Billet Fabrication on the map! On the Professional Series you get extra-thick (.090″) sheet metal, solid-billet attachment tubes, and the nicest heliarc welding in the industry — all for the price of stamped-out valve covers!

The custom version comes stock with an emblem (pictured). However, we can also modify it to your specifications. Contact us for a special quote for your own custom modified version.In order to give you the best experience, we use cookies and similar technologies for performance, analytics, personalization, advertising, and to help our site function. Want to know more? Read our Cookie Policy. You can change your preferences any time in your Privacy Settings.

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Keep collections to yourself or inspire other shoppers! Keep in mind that anyone can view public collections—they may also appear in recommendations and other places. View Etsy’s Privacy PolicyNot the valve covers you’re looking for? We’re happy to work with you to custom engrave your personal logo on any valve cover style you’d like. Get in touch with us and we’ll do our best to make your vision a reality.

Of course, there’s one last curve that we have to throw you before we’re done. The lash number that cam manufacturers supply will be the “hot lash,” which is the ideal lash after the engine is at operating temperature. The lash can change several thousandths of an inch between when it is at room temperature and when everything is warmed up properly. But lashing valves on a hot engine comes with plenty of difficulties.

For an engine with cast-iron heads and steel valves, you can expect the lash to tighten up a couple of thousandths of an inch as it heats up-so for the cold lash you would set the valve lash a couple thousandths larger than the cam manufacturer’s recommended hot lash setting.

Finally, lash can also be used sometimes as a tuning tool for your engine. Dorton says you can usually tighten or loosen your lash safely by 0.004. Tightening the lash will cause the cam to engage the valve more quickly, which will result in the valve opening sooner, lifting higher, and closing later. Essentially, it makes the cam act larger. Loosening the lash does the opposite, making the cam act smaller. Running tests with different lash settings on a dyno is a good way to see if your engine could use more or less cam.The solution is to determine how much the lash on your particular engine changes as it goes from room temperature to operating temperature. The easiest way to do this is to warm the engine up (getting the oil temp up to around 200 degrees Fahrenheit should do it), lash one intake and exhaust valve properly, allow it to cool and check to see how much the lash has changed. But that’s impossible to do if the engine is brand-new and you need to at least get the lash close before cranking it. Keith Dorton of Automotive Specialists has done extensive research in this area and provided us with some guidelines when it comes to lashing a cold engine.

EOIC stands for Exhaust Opening, Intake Closing when working with the intake and exhaust valves in a single combustion chamber. To use this method, pull the valve cover so that you can see the rockers and valve stems and turn the engine over by hand. (You can also use a bump starter if you choose.) Work with only one pair of valves from a single combustion chamber at a time. When you see the exhaust valve beginning to open-you will see the rocker begin to push the valve stem down-you will know that the corresponding intake valve is fully closed with the lifter on the base circle of the cam lobe. Likewise, when you see the intake valve fully open and then start to close (Intake Closing), you will know the corresponding exhaust valve is ready to be checked. Repeat the process with each pair of valves on the engine.

Dorton says he’s done it when a team needed to pick up a couple of tenths in qualifying in order to make the race or have a shot at the pole, but only when the track would allow him to re-adjust the valves before the race started. “You can’t leave it like that,” he explains, “because there’s no way it will finish the race without damaging something.”

Lash with a mechanical system is much more precise which can yield increased power, but it also requires more attention. Valve lash can change even if the rocker adjusters are locked down tight and must be checked regularly. If you’re using a pedestal-mount rocker system, valve lash should typically be checked after every two or three weekends of racing. Shaft-mount rocker systems are more stable and you can reliably delay checking lash much longer. On a shaft-mount system, most manufacturers say lash should be checked every 500 to 700 laps.Be aware, however, that some adjusters will actually change the lash clearance when the lock nut is tightened. On some designs, tightening the nut seems to pull the adjuster up into the body of the rocker and creates a thousandth or so extra lash. So you may need to make some trial adjustments and recheck your lash after tightening the lock nut. If you consistently see more or less lash after locking everything down, you will need to account for this when making your lash adjustment. Valve lash is the available gap between the rocker arm and the tip of the valve stem when the lifter for that valve is sitting on the base circle of the cam lobe. In other words, when the valve is intended to be fully closed. Sometimes, it can be difficult to tell by feeling the rocker arm when the lifter is on the cam lobe’s base circle. The easiest way to make sure you are checking lash at the right time is to use the “EOIC” method. What is a cause for concern is if you notice the valve lash opening up. The most common reason for this is a failure of the needle bearings in a roller lifter or a wiped cam lobe. “Wiping” a cam is when a lack of lubrication or some other problem causes the crown of the lobe of the cam to be ground away. When this happens the cam, and probably the lifters as well, must be replaced.You’ve spent more money on your engine than any other single component of your race car. And if you are like most racers, you’re fine with that as long as your engine makes good power and doesn’t grenade on you unexpectedly.

Remember, lash is only an issue with mechanical lifters, either flat-tappet or roller. Hydraulic lifters are designed to pump up the lifter cup and get rid of any lash in the system. Typically, in a race application the lash adjuster in the rocker arm is tightened until all the lash is taken out and then tightened down an additional quarter turn before locking everything down. After a hydraulic cam and lifter set is properly installed, no further maintenance-at least in terms of lash-is typically needed.

The first, and probably most obvious, problem is it’s no fun to work on a hot engine. Second, the engine starts cooling off as soon as it is shut down, so it’s impossible to lash all 16 valves at a consistent temperature. And third, lots of engine builders are now flooding the valve covers to help control valvespring harmonics, making it impossible to pull the valve covers so that the valves can be lashed for several minutes after the engine has been shut off.Because different materials expand at different rates as they are heated, you have to take into account your engine’s construction when estimating how the lash will change as the engine approaches operating temperature.

The problem is you can only detect damage to the lifter since you check lash with the lifter on the base circle and any damage to the lobe won’t show up. You should also check for metal shavings from the damaged cam in the oil and bearings. A broken axle or failed needle bearings in a roller lifter isn’t as big of a deal, but the problem lifter should be replaced or rebuilt immediately and the lifter bore checked for wear to avoid further engine damage.

But Dorton also gave us one more trick that you might want to consider if you are qualifying poorly and in danger of missing the field. Although he doesn’t recommend doing this regularly, he says opening up the lash an extra 0.006 will often pick up qualifying times on a typical half-mile track by around 0.2-second. This is because the first few degrees of the opening and closing ramps on a cam lobe are designed to gently lift the valve off the seat and drop it back into place again without damaging the valvetrain. Opening up the lash by six thousandths effectively removes this part of the cam lobe from the process and makes the valve action much more violent. That delayed opening helps create more compression and power, but it’s also very hard on the valvetrain.

With normal use, you should notice your valve lash slowly decreasing from one check to the next. This is especially true with a new engine. This is because of wear between the valve and the valve seat, which allows the valve to sit slightly deeper in the combustion chamber. You should consider this normal wear and it isn’t a reason for concern unless you have one valve move 0.002 or more after a single race, which could be a sign you have a damaged valve or seat. Once you’ve determined that the valve you are checking is fully closed, actually checking the lash is the easy part. Simply use a feeler gauge and slide the tab of the correct thickness between the tip of the valve stem and the end of the rocker. The camshaft manufacturer or your engine builder will give you the preferred lash range-it’s usually between 0.010- and 0.024-inch for a race engine. So let’s assume a hot lash spec of 0.017, so you will use the 0.017 tab on the feeler gauge. If the gauge won’t fit between the rocker and valve stem tip, loosen up the adjuster nut until it will, then tighten down until the 0.017 tab just fits while a 0.018 tab would be too thick, then tighten down the lock nut. Tall valve covers have added clearance over stock covers. If you upgrade to a High-Lift Camshaft, full roller rockers, and/or Shaft Mount Rockers, you will probably need tall covers. Tall covers are also required if you use a Stud Girdle.

Correct valve sizing is crucial to proper operation of your oil and gas production site. Today I’ll be discussing tips on valve sizing and sharing 3 symptoms of an improperly sized control valve.Symptoms of an oversized valve are often more subtle. Many of the calls I receive are from customers who did not realize their valve was oversized until a major secondary issue occurred on their site.

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Over time, the conditions and flow characteristic of any well are going to change. This may be due to production slowing on an aging well, fracking of an existing well, or secondary recovery efforts. At this point it is important to reassess your control valve sizing to make sure the valves are sized appropriately for the new flow conditions.Again, an oversized valve will result in a high stroke count, which over time will wear down your valve trim and packing much faster than it should under normal operation. This can lead to deterioration of the trim, resulting in poor performance and potential environmental issues.

The second symptom is water hammering. This can happen in oil or gas applications when a control valve is oversized. What you’ll see is the valve closing violently, which can lead to a stretching and eventual compromise of the valve stem. Over time water hammering also stresses the coupling block and valve seat to the point of breaking.Use these quick tips to make sure your control valves are sized correctly and production is operating at maximum capacity. For more detail on valve sizing, see our video on how to size a control valve.If your control valve seems to be unstable or erratic and the valve is opening and closing constantly, a likely cause is that the valve is oversized. This means the valve is trying to find your set point, but because it is too large it is unable to precisely meet your desired flow or pressure set point. Though it continues to try, it can’t help but overcorrect, shutting, then opening, then shutting again.Contact Us – Manage Preferences – Archive – Advertising – Cookie Policy – Privacy Statement – Terms of Service – Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information –

It’s all part of the art of building a performance or competition engine. The details separate the exceptional from the also-rans. Some specs like rod and main bearings receive a majority of the attention, but ignore something as simple as deck height and you could find a piston smacking the head at high rpm is not a good way for reciprocating parts to become acquainted.All of this is important if you want to add stroke to the crankshaft to increase displacement. Let’s use the classic small-block Chevy 350 as a case study. Our example uses a 9.025-inch deck height, along with a 3.48-inch stroke and a 5.7-inch connecting rod.