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Deer Shoulder Mount

Taxidermy is a method of preserving deceased, vertebrate animals for display. You often see taxidermied creatures in museums, but they can also be found in houses and cabins. People often have animals taxidermied that they have killed while hunting. Small and large animals can be taxidermied, and their whole bodies can be stuffed, or just their heads. You can even just mount the antlers of a deer or moose on the wall. The more large and elaborate the taxidermy project will be, the more it will cost.Already taxidermied shoulder-mounted deer heads are available to purchase online. On eBay, used ones tend to range from $100-500, while new ones that have not been displayed can be from $700-4,000. The cost primarily depends on the owner and the condition of the trophy. If you can, look at the trophy you are buying in person. Pictures can often be deceiving, and the trophy may be in worse condition than it appears in a photo. Make sure that you are paying a good price for the trophy that you are purchasing.

The average price is approximately $658. The most common price is $750. The cheapest price is $475 and the most expensive is $850. Some companies will charge an extra $50 or so to include a panel–the board on which the deer is attached–though some include that with the normal price.Many companies have prices that vary based on the job. The size, type, and condition of the deer will all factor in. Some areas have a lot of competition between taxidermists, so there is a lot of fluctuation in prices. If you are thinking of going with a company because of their price, talk to a representative directly to make sure that the price is still the same and see if there are factors that may increase the price, such as including a panel, extra cleaning, or bringing in a different type of deer. Backfire LLC owns and operates this website. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Commissions are earned for links to Brownell’s, Amazon, MidwayUSA, GoHunt, OpticsPlanet, Sportsman’s Warehouse, and other retailers. The eyes of the animal are usually made of glass or acrylic because the real eyes of the animal will rot away quickly. When a deer or moose is taxidermied, the taxidermist will also remove the antlers, clean them, and attach them back to the animal at the end. Shoulder mounted animals can also come mounted on a panel, or just attached to the wall.If you have a taxidermied deer, you may have spent a lot of time hunting it yourself. You also probably spent a lot of money getting it taxidermied. You probably want it to last as long as possible. In order to make sure your taxidermied deer lasts a long time, you can’t just leave it alone on the wall. You need to make sure to take care of it.The taxidermist will start by skinning the dead animal, cleaning the hide, and sending it to a tannery. Tanneries will preserve the skin through salting, drying, and chemical solutions, then send it back to the taxidermist. Before sending it to the tannery, the taxidermist takes measurements of the animal and skin. While the skin is being preserved, the taxidermist will build a frame of the animal. Once the skin comes back from the tannery, the taxidermist will stretch the skin out over the model, making sure it lines up with the limbs, face, and body of the frame. They will then sew the skin up, and the animal is taxidermied.

I started out bowhunting as a teenager and since then I’ve hunted with a rifle around the world. I have worked as a firearms safety range officer for three years and have published on several of the largest outdoors publications online.
Make sure to do some research into the prices in your area and pay attention to reviews of companies. This will help you find a company that will give you the quality you want for the price that you want.

Contrary to popular belief, only the skin of the dead animal is part of the taxidermy process. The animals are not “stuffed” either. The taxidermist cleans and preserves the skin of the animal, then stretches and shapes it on a frame that is modeled after the animal. These frames are typically made up of wire, wood, and wool.
Just as in our taxidermy work, we strive to provide the highest quality in our retail products as well. However, we know sometimes things just aren\u2019t right all the time.

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How long do deer shoulder mounts last?
They represent countless hours of outdoor scouting, skill, and memories. You can extend the life of your taxidermy through proper care. Taxidermy lasts for 20 years on average if not maintained. However, if it is maintained properly, it can remain in pristine condition for 50 years or more.
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As I gaze up at the whitetail mounts on my office wall, I figure I waited eight months to a year on average for the deer to come back from a taxidermy shop. That’s consistent with what hunters from across the country reported in my poll. Eight to 12 months start to finish for a super-looking mount is reasonable. If you can get your deer back in six months or sooner, great, so long as the quality doesn’t suffer.

Second, does a taxidermist tan his own capes, or send them to a tannery? If a studio sends them out, as most do, it might take three to six months to get the prepared skins back. What many people don’t realize is that the tanning process largely determines the timeline to finished mount. The actual taxidermy work is amazingly quick.

What is the best mount for deer?
The semi sneak deer mount (600 series) is one of the most popular taxidermy forms out there. It is a natural-looking mount option, with the neck lowered even further from the semi-upright mount.
If you kill a big buck during the rut or late gun season, you will drop off the cape and antlers at the taxidermist alongside dozens of other lucky hunters doing the same. A shop can get backed up in a hurry, and this stretches the timeline.

Some people grumbled it took 18 months or more to get their deer back, mostly due to a taxidermist taking on too much work. But a couple of hunters who waited two to even three years were happy they did, because the world-class quality of those mounts was worth the wait.
Takes three to four months to get my hides back from the tannery, says my friend and taxidermist Lance Waln. After that, it’s easy. It takes me about 30 minutes to prep the form and set the eyes. I can work the cape and mount a deer in about one hour and 15 minutes. Let it dry for about two weeks, then another 30 minutes for the finishing touches. Hands-on, about two and a half hours total to do a deer head.

What is the average cost of a buck shoulder mount?
Taxidermy can often be expensive to have done. Before you have a deer stuffed, make sure you know how much it’s going to cost you. The average price of taxidermy for a deer shoulder mount is $658 in the United States, but prices frequently range between $475 – $850.
It did take two years to get my best buck ever, a 209-inch-gross Canadian giant, back from the taxidermist. I knew that going in and was prepared for the wait. The buck was mounted by the top taxidermy studio in Saskatchewan, and you have to get your animal on a waiting list for them to do it.

Is shoulder mount difficult?
They can be one of the more difficult moves to master, as there’s a few factors at play, such as grip, strength, placement and control. Shoulder mounts are a days, weeks or months move.
If a hunter brings in a buck the first day of bow season, chances are he’ll have it back at the end of that month, says Virginia taxidermist Daryl Howdyshell, who tans all the capes in his shop and then spends about four hours mounting each deer head. But right now, at the end of rifle season, if someone brings in a buck, I’m at a year turnaround.Third, when you take a buck to the taxidermist is a huge factor. Those two- or three-month turnarounds you hear about? You can bet those hunters shot those deer in an early archery season and took them to a shop immediately.

When you drop off your buck and plunk down a deposit, discuss timing up front with your taxidermist. Six months, eight months, a year? Then be patient if it takes a few months longer than expected, within reason. Don’t call and bug him. You want and expect a taxidermist to do his best work, and most of the time the wait is worth it.

There were a few outliers. All the hunters who got their mounts back in two to four months killed those animals with a bow during September or October, and took them to the taxidermist before he got busy later in the season.
I was talking to a friend the other day who was grumbling about his taxidermist. I took him a 10-pointer I shot back in 2018 and he’s still not finished, Scott said. Told me I might get him this summer.Three factors largely determine the wait for your buck. First, most taxidermy shops are small — one-man shows, or maybe with a part-time helper or two. How efficiently a taxidermist runs his business, and how many deer he accepts to mount each fall, will determine the turnaround time for your mount. If a shop takes in too many deer, along with some bears and other animals, the wait can turn into more than a year.Subscribe to our newsletter and get an extra 10% on your first purchase. News, promotions and latest products delivered to you in your inbox. You can unsubscribe at any time.If the form of the mount has been compromised, it can be expensive and take time before it can actually be repaired. It could require a complete remount, including ear liners and eyes.A good mount should last a lifetime, but there are a few things to be done. I’ve already mentioned the precautions to take as far as temperature, humidity and direct sunlight that could bleach the hide. You also need to look over each mount you bring in for signs of insect damage. One hide with bugs could easily cause an infestation that can spread from mount to mount, ruining them all.

Hopefully, you won’t need a repair job, but things happen. Once the professional has returned the finished taxidermy back to you, it is in your hands to reduce the chances of it being compromised later on.
When I look at the game mounts on walls throughout my home and office, I don’t consider them decorations. They are memories that allow me to relive the hunt. Each time I look at one I’m able to remember the specific details of that time afield. I know when and where it was killed, the weather, what the animal was doing that led up to the shot, the tracking job, who I was with, and more.First, make sure the work is displayed in an area with little change in temperature and humidity. Also, keep the mount out of direct sunlight. Too many are damaged before they even make it to the trophy room. Before transporting, make certain you have a plan on getting your game home and into your trophy room without causing any damage. A white-tailed buck shoulder mount is often as simple as carrying it in, knowing where you want it, and then placing it securely on the wall. But for bigger shoulder mounts like elk or moose or for full-body mounts, you may have to remove doors and have dollies available to get the animal inside. Knowing what needs to be done before the mount arrives will lessen the chances of inflicting damage.

But accidents happen, and mounts can be damaged. Unfortunately, I have had my share of damaged ones throughout the years. Most of the time it happened during transit, and I even had a couple fall from the wall because of a lightning strike. Fortunately, though, taxidermists are artists and most damaged mounts can be repaired to look like new.
Again, taxidermists are good at their craft, and can often fix such mishaps. If possible, it is best for the hunter to take any pieces of the broken antler to the taxidermist. Where the damage to the mount occurred has a lot to do with how difficult it will be to repair. An old cape is going to be harder to repair than chipped paint on the tip of the nose. Capes that are falling apart can still be fixed. However, it will normally require a cleaning, new paint and finishing work. But if the workmanship was poor from the beginning there might be little one can do to salvage the mount. There are times when the cape can’t be saved and a new one has to be put on. But the cape rarely matters. Unless you tell, nobody will know it’s a replacement as they stare at the trophy antlers. Whitetail capes are easy to come by and will not cost lots of money. However, the harder it is to find size of cape you need, the more it will cost.

A few years ago, my sister shot a nice 10-point whitetail. The big buck was hanging in the garage behind the closed overhead door. During the evening, another member of our deer camp attempted to open the garage door from the outside. Forgetting the buck was hanging, the young hunter used a little extra force to raise the door when the first attempt failed. Hearing a loud thud as the buck slammed to the concrete floor, the hunter suddenly remembered there had been a buck hanging. Several inches of antler broke off of one side of the rack.
Jason Houser is an avid outdoorsman from Central Illinois. Houser has been a full-time freelance writer since 2008. He is also the host of Jason Houser Outdoors, airing on the Hunt Channel. He can be found on Facebook at Jason Houser Outdoors or on the web at Like the repairs my sister had to have done on her big buck, antlers and horns can easily be repaired under most circumstances. But it depends on the severity of the damage. Resins are often used to fix them, but sometimes replications have to be casted to replace the damaged ones. The expense can be small for an easy repair to a very expensive one for a replica. Hopefully you’ll never need a repair job on a prized mount, especially if you take measures to ensure its safety. But if you do need quality work done, it’s nice to know it’s readily available.

A professional taxidermist’s work is not cheap, and like most things in life, you get what you pay for. But an expert will do what he or she can to save what is from the original mount while trying their best to keep the cost down. For example, a complete remount will be the cost of an original mount, plus the price for a cape. This may be several hundred dollars. But a simple antler repair might be less than $100.There are several steps to creating the perfect whitetail deer mount. Whether you are looking for a whitetail deer taxidermy, mule deer taxidermy, or any kind of deer taxidermy, it is important to choose a taxidermist that is skilled and knowledgeable in creating the perfect deer mount. Below is an overview of the process that All-Taxidermy follows to ensure the best mounts possible.

Is 12 hours long enough to hang deer?
The deer stiffens during rigor mortis in the 24 hours after being killed. If it is processed during this time, the muscles shorten and contract causing the meat to become tough. You should let your deer hang for 2 to 4 days at minimum before processing to avoid this.
The next step after tanning is to clean the skin to ensure that no unwanted dirt remains. Once cleaned, the skin can be stitched together to cover any lingering holes. This is important for covering gunshot wounds and holes created during the hunting process.All-Taxidermy is a premier whitetail deer taxidermy service. All-Taxidermy offers a variety of custom whitetail deer mounts, from shoulder to European mounts. Contact All-Taxidermy to discuss your custom deer mount pose and habitat design to create a true one of a kind piece, or to purchase one of our mounts.Once you have decided what kind of whitetail deer mount you want, the next step is to measure out the area of the deer’s head, neck, and some portion of the chest with the deer skull. These measurements will be a vital step to ensure the taxidermy mount comes out as expected. Caping is the process of removing the skin from the whitetail deer to create the taxidermy mount. The measurements will help to identify the proper areas to cut. The next step in our creative process is to treat the skin. Treating the skin means to soak the skin in a solution. This process is used to preserve the skin and give it a natural, leather-like finish that can be easily maintained.

How thick is a deer's shoulder?
But. That’s what you want to penetrate you need a broad head that’s gonna be able to number one you need to weight. Weight.
Casting is where the mounting kits are used to give the whitetail deer hide volume to recreate its original form. This part is where the skills of the taxidermist shine through. Trying to create a smooth whitetail deer mount that needs little maintenance after mounting is one of the goals of any taxidermist.Speak to us today about our 3D wall pedestal deer shoulder forms and our top quality range of semi sneaks. We will gladly assist you in making the best choice. You can also view or download our catalogue below.

If for some reason you need to do a deeper cleaning, use a clean, dry, or slightly damp cotton ball. Lightly brush in the direction of the grain of fur, hair, or feathers. Get a new cotton ball once dirt is visible on the cotton ball.

Should you aim for the shoulder of deer?
For this position, aim for the closest side of the sternum between the deer’s shoulders. This will penetrate the heart and lung, making a swift kill. Avoid shooting a deer behind the shoulder when it’s quartering towards you, only when it’s quartering away. Never confuse the two!
It is important to display your taxidermy mount in a location that will preserve its life. Experts recommend considering the following factors before deciding where to place your mount:The outer surface of a taxidermy mount is made of organic material so naturally, this part of the mount will start to deteriorate over time. The purpose of taxidermy is to preserve those organic materials, but if a taxidermy mount is left uncared for, it will show dramatic deterioration in about 20 years or less.Never cut the animal’s throat. This is not the proper way to kill an animal and will not look nice when mounted. If possible, avoid dragging the animal — this could result in bare spots and tears in the skin. If you are caping and skinning the deer yourself, make sure to leave the skin long enough (well behind the front legs). When transporting the hide, don’t leave it rolled up, and keep it as clean and dry as you can.

Never use any household cleaning products or water on the piece. Ask your taxidermist to apply a dust shield spray to your mount which will make dusting it much easier.It is important that you care for the animal immediately after harvesting it and while it is on display. This allows you to preserve the beauty of its life, and the excitement of your hunt for many years. Take the time now to maintain your trophy mounts and you are sure to be telling tales of your adventures for decades to come.

Can a bad deer mount be fixed?
Fortunately, though, taxidermists are artists and most damaged mounts can be repaired to look like new. Hopefully, you won’t need a repair job, but things happen. Once the professional has returned the finished taxidermy back to you, it is in your hands to reduce the chances of it being compromised later on.
This being said, all taxidermy has the potential to last decades if the taxidermist did a quality job and the owner did proper maintenance and care over the years.Taxidermy trophy mounts are so much more than home decor. They represent countless hours of outdoor scouting, skill, and memories. You can extend the life of your taxidermy through proper care.

Treat your taxidermy pieces as if they were original artwork because they are! Taxidermy is the purest form of natural history and each animal tells a story. Each taxidermy mount is one of a kind, and once it is damaged, it will never look the same.
The life of your taxidermy piece begins as soon as you make the kill in a hunt. If you bring your taxidermist a damaged animal skin, it will not look as good after being taxidermied or last as long.Taxidermy lasts for 20 years on average if not maintained. However, if it is maintained properly, it can remain in pristine condition for 50 years or more. Factors that reduce the life of taxidermy include extreme temperatures, humidity, exposure to light, bugs, and human touch.

How far to cut a deer for shoulder mount?
The first thing you want to do when caping out a head for a shoulder mount is to make sure you leave enough skin. As a general rule, if you leave a least 6 inches behind the front legs you will have plenty.
Dusting at least once a month is a key to preserving taxidermy. A clean feather duster works fine, but to avoid any friction on the surface of the animal, you can use a hairdryer. Set the hair dryer to the lowest heat and power settings to gently blow away any debris and dust.

How long should a deer shoulder mount take?
What to Expect. I took a social media poll of fervent deer hunters and asked them how long on average it takes to get a shoulder mount back from their taxidermist. I got hundreds of great responses, split pretty much down the middle: 51% of people said six to eight months, and 49% answered nine months to a year.
Some of the common signs of deterioration are hair or fur shedding, sagging/drooping, fading or bleaching, fragility, brittle texture, visible molded form, and loss of detail.

Some taxidermy animals may not last as long as others. Birds and fowl, for example, have very small bones and other features that could easily be damaged and start to droop over time. Animals like rabbits and snakes have very thin skin that could easily crack or tear after a few years if not cared for properly. (Source)Taxidermy that is already in poor shape may need more help than a light cleaning. Consider taking the piece to a taxidermist for restoration. They would be able to reattach broken parts, touch up paint (like the lips or nose), and clean heavy dust, all of which require special tools and expertise.

A damp cloth can be used to shine the eyes and dry areas like antlers. Use a Q-tip to apply a small amount of petroleum jelly around the eyes and on the nose. This will keep these areas from drying out and bring a life-like shine.
thanks. Me too. Fleshing and preparing the hide takes the longest. I didn’t keep track but I’d guess the whole process takes about 12-16 hours man hours but overall about 2 months for curing, drying, etc.

There must be adequate hide to cover the form, therefore the cape should be cut just behind the front legs. Excess hide can be removed later. Begin to remove the hide with a sharp knife working towards the head. When you reach the ear bases cut the ears away from the skull, the cartilage will be removed later. The area around the eyes is tricky, leave as much of the eyelid attached as possible.
where did you get the foam pose base, the glass eyes, and the plastic ear bases? i want to go hunting with my dad and maybe skin and stuff my prizes but it would be my first time. do you have any other tips?Once the hide is removed from the pickling the flesh side should be scraped thoroughly to remove the membrane. Any extra flesh remaining in the nose or around the eyes and lips should be carefully scraped away. Now is the time to sew any holes in the hide.

Thank you for sharing. You did a great job with an extremely detailed step by step guide. I was wondering if you ever thought about doing this professionally? I am trying to start my own company and would love some guidance and help. Let me know what you think, here is my website for reference.

Whether taxidermy is a very new hobby for you or you’re a professional with years of experience under your belt, one thing’s the same: you need to produce a great mount for your customer. You’d like some repeat business, wouldn’t you? That means always using the best forms and taxidermy supplies available to make the mount as realistic as possible. But sometimes that also means guiding your customer on how to choose a taxidermy mount. There are obviously many different types of deer mount forms available (and virtually any other animal too). So how do you guide your patron through how to choose a taxidermy mount in an effective manner? This article should be a good starting point. But be sure to check out the 2017 taxidermy catalog for a list of our mount forms, glass eyes, tanning chemicals, and just about any taxidermy supply you could want. You may also find it helpful to have this catalog on-hand to show your customers, as it’s helpful for most people to look at actual pictures of deer mounts before they decide.
Some hunters have very definite ideas when they bring an animal in how it should look. In many cases, that works just fine. But there are lots of little details that they might not have thought of yet. Or maybe you know that what they’re suggesting could make the mount look terrible with the animal they’ve got. It’s up to you as the professional to guide them on how to choose a taxidermy mount and what would look best. Here are just a few suggestions to clarify with them before they leave.

After looking through the various deer mount poses above, do you see how you can help guide a customer on how to choose a taxidermy mount? It doesn’t have to (and shouldn’t) be a pushy salesperson approach. Listen to what they tell you and then ask clarifying questions about the end result they’d like. If you notice something that could be a red flag, discuss it and see what they say.
As mentioned above, you can offer to flip through the OTS taxidermy supply catalog for some ideas or to show the high quality materials you’ll use to create a memorable mount for them. While most hunters don’t usually want to know all the details, all would like some assurance that you’re not going to use cheap taxidermy forms that won’t hold up over time. Depending on how much time you have, you could really go through a highly-customized mount by working together with the hunter. Hopefully you’ll have a chance to discuss how to choose a taxidermy mount with a likely customer very soon.

As you know, different forms will make a mount look very unique. Each one has their own emotion and presence. As an example, let’s look at the various whitetail deer mount styles to see how you might explain to a customer how to choose a taxidermy mount.
Since all our taxidermy is done in a customized way you can personalize your deer trophy by adding features. Choose from standard shoulder mount, wall pedestal, pedestal mount and more. You can also customize the position: alert upright position, straight out sneak position or halfway in between which is called semi-sneak. The animal can be looking right, left or straight. Right or left has more character but if you need straight, I can make that happen. (Consider the placement of the mount in your home for this option). I can also add wooden plaques, landscaping and more.Some people will quarter the deer without aging it, but this is a major mistake if you want quality venison. The deer stiffens during rigor mortis in the 24 hours after being killed. If it is processed during this time, the muscles shorten and contract causing the meat to become tough. You should let your deer hang for 2 to 4 days at minimum before processing to avoid this. For the best tasting deer meat Mississippi State University recommends 14 to 18 days of hanging time. A general rule of thumb is, the older the deer, the longer the hang time. Longer hanging times will allow the deer’s natural enzymes and acids to break down and tenderize the meat and give it a smoother, less “gamey” flavor.

An optimal temperature to hang deer meat at should be temperature above freezing but below 40 degrees F. Many people let the deer hang in their garage, but this far from the proper conditions because of contaminants, pests and temperature fluctuations that come with an uncontrolled environment such as this. If your meat is stored above 40 degrees it will start to rot, but if it is frozen at temperatures below 28 degrees it can become freezer burned. In these situations, having access to a commercial-sized refrigerator that will keep your deer at a constant temperature and free of outside contamination is optimal.It may be hard to justify purchasing a large refrigerator exclusively for use during hunting season. In the offseason, the Game Locker can be used just like any other walk-in cooler to store soda, beer, meat, produce or anything else that requires cold storage. The Game Locker is made of modular insulated panels, so it could be disassembled to save space when not in use. It can be purchased with or without an insulated floor and comes in two sizes: 6’ x 6’ x 8’ and 6’ x 8’ x 8’. If you use the Game Locker with the best practices for deer hanging and processing, you can produce venison that is both tender and has amazing flavor. To learn more and get a price quote, visit the U.S. Cooler Game Locker page or download the Game Locker brochure. You can also download MSU’s guide to harvesting, dressing and cooling deer.

Deer hunting seasons are underway in some parts of the nation, so it’s time once again to prepare yourself to venture into the fields and forests. Once you’ve managed to harvest and field dress your first deer, there’s the matter of storing it in the proper environment to get the best tasting meat.
The U.S. Cooler Game Locker provides an elegant solution for proper deer aging. The Game Locker is a walk-in cooler equipped with up to 8 meat hooks on a sliding rail system. These refrigerators have been reinforced to bear up to 800 lbs hanging from the ceiling. Owning your own Game Locker will allow you (and any friends you let use it) the freedom to hang several deer in the perfect environment for as long as you see fit.Many newbie hunters try to shoot deer behind the shoulder as they stand broadside. The reason for this is because it provides the shooter the largest margin of error, ensuring that the lungs, a major vital organ, will indeed be hit. However, you must remember your deer is not a paper prop target and you can still hit the lungs as they stand directly on, so long as you have a steady hand and good aim. Ideally, you want the bullet to kill the deer swiftly and in one shot, which means aiming for one of its vital organs like the heart, lungs, brain, major artery or spinal cord. However, as a novice hunter, striking one of these organs is trickier when the deer is not a 2D target. As a hunter, you have to take into account bodily obstacles. Before reaching the vital organ, the bullet has to pass through flesh and even bone. And this is where hunters tend to go wrong. So, try to remember this as you aim and prepare to take the shot. Many deer hunting misconceptions and bad advice are given to beginner hunters, especially when it comes to tracking and shooting. But with deer being the most common and popular game in the United States with 10.9 million hunters out there, it’s crucial to get the facts straight. And when it comes to being an ethical hunter and doing your part for a swift and successful kill, knowing where to aim is crucial. With your eye on the target, here’s where to shoot a deer to minimize suffering and make recovery of the animal easier.When the deer is quartering away at a three-quarter-degree turn, a shot gets more complicated. Specifically, when the deer’s head is facing away at a quarter turn, it requires a shot some distance behind the shoulder. Aim right behind the shoulder and one-third of the way up from the deer’s belly line to penetrate the lungs, heart or one of the major arteries. For sharper quartering away positions, aim for the offside shoulder farthest away. Often, this means just behind the rib cage, sending the bullet through the stomach first. Keep in mind that this shot should only be attempted with a high-power caliber. Otherwise, have patience and wait for a better shot angle.

When the deer faces you with its chest exposed, the heart or the above aorta is your best target. To hit these vital organs, you’ll need to aim where the neck and the chest meet. This shot will kill a deer quickly. However, if the deer is grazing or drinking with its head down, you might have to wait until it pops its head up again to allow a straight shot.

Opposite of head on is the straight away position. With the deer’s rump directly toward you, it doesn’t offer many great options. This position will require a heavier caliber with a controlled expansion bullet and an aim directly under the base of the deer’s tail. Essentially, you will be shooting through the deer’s bowels and into its heart or lungs. This shot has disadvantages, being messy for starters, so if you can be patient and wait for a better shot, do so!
The shoulder shot can take out an aorta or even the heart. For this shot, you’ll want to aim just below the point of the shoulder and one-third of the way up from the deer’s belly. Unlike a lung shot that makes the deer lose oxygen slowly and escape, this shot will kill the deer instantly, which means you won’t have to track it down. However, this shot requires a closer vantage point and a powerful rifle that can penetrate the shoulder.

The quartering toward is similar to quartering away, only with the deer facing you. For this position, aim for the closest side of the sternum between the deer’s shoulders. This will penetrate the heart and lung, making a swift kill. Avoid shooting a deer behind the shoulder when it’s quartering towards you, only when it’s quartering away. Never confuse the two!
Whatever gun you choose to carry deer hunting, make sure to protect your investment and keep it secure with Pelican gun cases and rifle cases. Pelican’s waterproof hard cases offer complete protection from the elements, keeping your gun dry and safeguarded. Pick up an ammo case to keep bullets dry, too. Happy hunting!As you consider where to shoot a deer as it approaches, keep these seven places in mind. And remember that a deer is a 3D object, meaning you probably have more organs than one you can take out. If you are into saddle hunting and use a treestand, this shot is for you! Aim for higher on the deer near the chest cavity so that the bullet penetrates the heart or lungs. If the deer is not necessarily directly below your stand and a little ahead of you, aim through the shoulder blades so the bullet hits the spine and other nearby vitals. Once you get your shoulder mount, it’s time to reduce your kick off. Momentum can only get you so far in this trick, because soon we’re going to take the floor away from you. When it comes time to learn aerial shoulder mounts, it’ll make your life so much easier if you’re able to do regular shoulder mounts with as little kick off from the ground as possible. When you’re training shoulder mounts from the proper standing position, you really want to think about pressing that shoulder into the pole and tensing every muscle in your arms and shoulders. Imagine you’re physically trying to throw the pole over your head. Squeeze your shoulder blades together, like you’re trying to hold a pencil between them. Kicking off from the ground, tuck your knees into your chest and curve your bum and hips up. Think hips higher than head. Try and hold that ball position. Eventually you’ll feel secure enough to unfold your legs into a straddle. Yes this is a strength move, but it’s not just a matter of being strong to achieve it. This trick is all about activating the right muscles, in the right way.